Northern Territory
Alice Springs - Kings Canyon - Uluru
8 Days
Ask anyone about Australia’s Northern Territories (NT), and the first thing that springs to mind is Uluru / Ayres Rock,
arguably the region’s most iconic tourist destination. But the NT has so much more to offer, and you would be doing
yourself a disservice and the region a grave injustice if you followed the masses and limited your stay to Uluru alone.
Give yourself some extra time; grab a four-wheel drive and embrace the outback adventure.
This 10-day Northern Territory road trip starts in Alice Springs, takes you through Kings Canyon and finishes at Uluru.
Overview
01
Alice Springs
02
Alice Springs - Glen Helen (via MacDonnell Ranges)
03
Glen Helen
04
Glen Helen - Kings Canyon
(via Mereenie Loop)
05
Kings Canyon - Yulara
06
Yulara
Uluru
07
Yulara
Kata Tjuta
08
Yulara - Alice Springs
Travel Route
01
Alice Springs
Morning
Arriving at the airport, we picked up our four-wheel drive and made the short ten-minute journey to our hotel. There is only one road in and out of town, so even for us, it was hard to get lost. Hotel options are limited, but we picked the Crowne Plaza, conveniently only a fifteen-minute walk from the main high street.
Afternoon
We scheduled a full day to explore Alice Springs, the third-largest town in The Northern Territories. But don’t be fooled; it only took a short walk for us to realise that half a day would be more than enough. Nervous about what the afternoon had in store, we hit up the guidebook’s number one recommendation: Alice Springs Reptile Centre. While interesting, it felt more like a Bond villain’s private collection, and no more than thirty minutes is enough.
Evening
Thankfully, we were recommended one of Alice Springs’s best-kept secrets, the Alice Springs Brewery & Beer Garden, which was a pleasant way to take in the afternoon sun while drinking one of their craft brews.
We had also heard that the sunset tour around the Kangaroo sanctuary was a great way to spend an evening. But we missed out with tours only running on Wednesdays, Thursdays, or Fridays. So make sure you plan.
Alice Springs
Alice Springs Brewery & Beer Garden
Car Hire: Hertz - Alice Springs Airport.
Accommodation: Crown Plaza.
02
Alice Springs - Glen Helen
(via MacDonnell Ranges)
Morning
We kicked things off very early for our hot air balloon experience - Outback Ballooning Alice Springs. This was well worth the 5am hotel pick-up as we got our first glimpse of the Outback sunrise. With thirty or sixty-minute flights available, there are options for everyone, all finishing with a generous helping of sparkling wine, which always gets top marks in my book.
We were back at the hotel by 9am and ready to head west on our road trip along the MacDonnell Ranges towards Glen Helen, our destination for the evening.
You are tracking alongside the famous Larapinta Trail – a 223km walking track extending the MacDonnell Ranges. But, if, like us, that was literally a step too far, you can conveniently follow the Larapinta Drive Highway. It takes you past all the same sights but in a fraction of the time and without the blisters.
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Simpsons Gap (20km from Alice Springs)
This was our first stop, a short detour from Larapinta Drive. Arriving at the car park, it was an easy ten-minute walk along the dried riverbed towards the permanent water hole.
-
Standley Chasm: (40km from Simpsons Gap)
This was busier than our first stop, mainly due to the on-site café. The chasm is an interesting fifteen-minute walk from the visitor’s centre and didn’t disappoint.
Afternoon
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Ellery Creek: (60km from Standley Chasm)
Instead of taking a dip in the waterhole, we decided to do the Dolomite walk, a 3.2km circular route that begins at the car park and shares part of the track with the Larapinta trail. It took us around an hour and was relatively steep in places. But the views from the top were well worth the effort and offered something different as we knew there were more swim spots to come.
Evening
Arriving at Glen Helen – Homestead Lodge, blink, and you miss it. It was the only accommodation option, so we didn’t know what to expect. Primarily a camping site, there are a limited number of mountain view cabins available (so book early). The rooms are simple but have everything you need, but that’s not what you are paying for; it is the front-row seat to the panoramic views of the river and gorge.
If you’re looking for an escape from the usual distractions, this is the place for you. With no WIFI or 4G, this offered a welcome relief from emails and texts; but if like us, you are still planning parts of your trip, it can be a little frustrating.
Accommodation: Glen Helen Homestead Lodge.
Distance travelled: 133km.
Outback Ballooning Alice Springs
Simpsons Gap
Standley Chasm
Homestead Lodge - Glen Helen Gorge
03
Glen Helen
Morning
Today was arguably my highlight of the trip. With so much to do along the McDonnell Ranges, I recommend taking an extra night in Glen Helen, as it provides a perfect mid-point to explore the surrounding area.
-
Redbank Gorge: (25km from Glen Helen)
This was undoubtedly my favourite spot along the Western MacDonnell ranges. But be warned, it was also the hardest to access and the first time the four-wheel drive came into its own. Once you reach the car park, it’s a short 2km walk to the gorge. But the path quickly runs out, leaving you with a difficult scramble along the riverbed boulders to reach the gorge – so sturdy shoes are a must. But we were blown away when we eventually arrived. What should have been a quick stop turned into an entire morning lounging on the rocks. If you brave the icy waters and swim to the far side, you can head through a connecting tunnel system that winds through the rocks. I had a little look-in but was far happier lounging in the water (inflatable swan optional).
Afternoon
-
Ormiston Gorge: (10km from Glen Helen)
With the furthest stop done, we headed back towards Glen Helen and Ormiston Gorge. Its sandy banks were a popular option for families. This was another excellent swimming spot and far easier to reach along a paved walking track. By this point, we were ready to kick back, so we were not tempted by the , a 3-4 hour walk that would take you up and along the rim of the gorge.
Evening
-
Glen Helen Gorge: (0km from Glen Helen)
This one is on your doorstep and only a short wander down the from the accommodation. Make sure you get a drink from the lodge bar on your way down; nothing beats watching the sunset with a glass of bubbles in hand—what a way to spend our last night.
Redbank Gorge
Redbank Gorge
Redbank Gorge
Accommodation: Glen Helen Homestead Lodge.
Distance travelled: 80km.
04
Glen Helen - Kings Canyon
(via Mereenie Loop)
Morning
Today was the first of the long drives and gave a new meaning to the word remote. Starting on a 60km sealed stretch, the road soon ran into a dirt track and the beginning of the 140km Mereenie Loop. You need two things to complete this drive:
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A permit: Only $5 and easy to grab from Glen Helen Homestead Lodge
-
4WD: Without one you won’t make it. There are no alternative routes unless you are willing to make the full day’s drive back to Alice Springs and start on separate Highway South. A waste of precious time and far less fun.
The Mereenie section took us about two hours (with a few photo stops), and we would have been lucky to see five cars in total. Be prepared for a bumpy ride and uninterrupted scenery.
Afternoon
Arriving at the more popular Kings Canyon resort, our accommodation was another 40km along the road at Kings Creek Station – an old cattle ranch. After a busy day on the road, we opted for luxury glamping, Drovers Dream. To our surprise, it was an additional 5km away, hidden away past an isolated turn-off where we enjoyed a few afternoon drinks.
Evening
There were ten semi-permanent glamping units, each with a self-cook BBQ, wine, and a fire pit. So, it’s fair to say we had everything we needed to enjoy a night under the stars. Luckily, no one else had booked, giving us the place to ourselves. It was easily our favourite evening of the entire trip. We even spotted a few dingos!
Accommodation: Kings Creek Station - Drovers Dream.
Distance travelled: 265km.
Mereenie Loop
Kings Creek Station - Drovers Dream
Kings Creek Station - Drovers Dream
05
Kings Canyon - Yulara
Morning
Yet another early start as we retraced our route back to Kings Canyon to take on the famous Kings Canyon Rim Walk at sunrise. This 6km (three-hour) route can get busy, so an early start is necessary to avoid the crowds and heat.
Don’t be put off by the five-hundred-stair climb to kick things off. It is undoubtedly the most challenging section, so be prepared to be puffed out. But don’t worry; it is short-lived, and as soon as you reach the top, you realise what the fuss is about. As you wind along the Canyon walls, you would be mistaken for thinking you were on Mars thanks to the red Martian landscape.
Kings Canyon - Rim Walk
Afternoon
With busloads of tourists quickly filling the carpark, we decided to hit the road, as we had a 300km drive ahead of us. Thankfully the entire journey to Yulara was on sealed roads with incredible viewpoints along the way. The most notable was Mount Conner, which I’ll admit I mistook for Uluru – but I’m confident I can’t have been the only one to make that error.
I will be honest; after five days in the outback, I was slightly disappointed when we arrived at Yulara. The 1970s resort is a purpose-built town complex that sits roughly 20km north of Uluru, where most tourists base themselves. It felt transient and geared towards servicing the masses, especially large coach parties.
We, however, dropped our bags and made the most of exploring some of the nearby viewpoints a short walk from town; the Imalung and the Naninga lookouts.
Everything around the Ayres Rock Resort runs like clockwork and can be booked almost exclusively through the app. It really is the only way to get things done. This isn’t a play-it-by-ear type of destination.
Evening
Our first evening was spent on the famous Field of Lights Tour – booked on the app. With a full bus heading out every 45 minutes, it felt regimented. Although we did snap some cool pictures, overall, it was slightly underwhelming and busy. There were morning and early evening options available as alternatives. Great if you have time, but if this is limited, there are better ways to spend your time.
Kings Canyon - Rim Walk
Field of Light
Accommodation: Sails in the Desert.
Distance travelled: 350km.
06
Yulara
(Uluru)
Morning
Today was the Uluru Base walk. Driving into the national park requires the inexpensive ($38) Uluru-Kata Tjuta National Park pass. I recommend buying this online to allow you to skip the queue.
Starting from the Mala car park, this 10km circular track is precisely what it says on the tin, so it’s hard to get lost. With some sections in touching distance and others much further away, you experience all perspectives. It was also flat, a relief after our last few walks. As always, it paid to start early and beat the crowds.
Afternoon
Next, we headed back to the hotel to spend an afternoon at the pool. We did make a point on the way back of stopping off at the various viewing platforms and finished with a driving loop of the base for good measure.
Evening
By this point, we hadn’t quite had our fix and decided to take in Uluru from the sky by jumping onboard the accurately timed 36-minute sunset helicopter tour across Uluru and Kata Tjuta. Again, this was booked in advance through the app (by now, you should be able to spot the trend… get the app!).
The views were spectacular and well worth the high price tag. If you are coming all this way, it would be a shame not to experience it fully.
Uluru Base Walk
Uluru Base Walk
Accommodation: Sails in the Desert.
Distance travelled: 50km.
07
Yulara
(Kata Tjuta)
Morning
In my opinion, Kata Tjuta is unfairly overlooked by its sister Uluru. It’s a further 50km into the national park and offers two different walks, both easily completed in a day, so there is no need to choose.
-
Walpa Gorge
This was our first stop, and only a twenty-minute walk either way. So, leave yourself an hour to complete the walk in total. Weaving between the high walls, it’s impressive that Kata Tjuta stands 718m taller than Uluru.
Afternoon
-
Valley of the Winds Walk
The car park is a five-minute drive away, and the start point for the 7km, 3.5 hrs circular walk. By far the most challenging hike of the trip, as the terrain was uneven and the path exposed to the elements. It was probably our fault for arriving at the hottest point of the day. Luckily, we were in the cooler season, but the path regularly shuts by 11am, so make sure you get there early.
Evening
That night we had booked into Tali Wiru, which translates to beautiful dune in the local Anangu language. This is a fine dining experience where you can take a final sunset view of Uluru with canapes and champagne before sitting down to a wine-pairing menu under the stars. Great food and a wonderful setting; what a perfect way to end our trip.
Accommodation: Sails in the Desert.
Distance travelled: 100km.
Kata Tjuta
Tali Wiru
Tali Wiru
08
Alice Springs
It was time to say goodbye and make the 450km drive to Alice Springs. The drive back was much simpler (and boring) as we followed Stuarts and Lasseters Highways to the airport.
Flights out of Alice Springs are few and far between, so if you can’t get timings to sync up, it may require an extra night in Alice Springs.
Mereenie Loop
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Northern Territory: Alice Springs - Kings Canyon - Uluru | 8 Day Road Trip.
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